Use the same method for removing the excess as explained above, yet for raised bolts and rivets a fine brush will allow you to get in between those without removing the needed accent color. Cup on part with brush Apply over base coat of lacquer or acrylic paint. Accent Color paints may damage underlying base coat. Test before applying onto the model. Now let’s get a little more organic. One of the great features about these products is blending it for a more idea shade. Sometimes light grey is too bold. In this picture you can see I’ve cut the ratio 50/50 in a mixing cup. This will give that spot a look of being hit by the muddy wind of propeller air-wash. Brown and grey in cup

With the introduction over we can move to a real-world example. All the products used in this tutorial are available at Sunward Hobbies, so there’s no magical hidden formula or nonsense. Again, the stuff I’m using is the same you’ll be buying. Here’s a Tamiya 1/48 Russian Shturmovik WWII aircraft. Tamiya Model Kit IL-2 box lid

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I’m going to open a sealed bag and prep a fresh piece of plastic with Mr. Primer Surfacer 1000. The tutorial on that product has been already posted if you need to know how to use it. Primer on lower wing half Tamiya Masking Tape Holder - Holds 6, 10 and 18mm wide rolls with Anti-Slip Rubber Feet - Easy to swap out with Magnetic Top - 3D Printed Next, you’ll begin to remove the excess. Work 90 degrees against the direction of the line when you can. Rubbing the same direction will, in many cases, remove the wash entirely. Don’t press too hard, remember you’re just adding thinner. After a few strokes the pigment will rehydrate and begin coming away. Turn your cotton swab often to a clean spot and replace it when it’s covered with pigment. Blue arrows on tail

USB Programmed board with soldered 1.3" oled screen for DIY project computer cpu gpu temp, framerate, load monitor, ram usage, and indicator When you’ve completed remove the bulk of the excess there will be some residue. Now you may opt to leave this as a weathering effect, clean it up a little as a “post shade” or get rid of it entirely. It all depends on the look you’re after. Tail and smudged grey wash with blue thumb Once these clear coats have fully dried in an hour or so the Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color can be safely added. It’s critical to let them dry or you risk rubbing the Tamiya pigment into the unhardened clear coat. Wing half with 3 sheens H.G. Barnes is a former voice-over artist and retired sales and marketing professional. He’s the author of two large volume science fiction adventure romance novels with many more in the works. For well over 40 years he’s been building scale model replicas and now does commission work for clients in Canada and the USA, plus completes projects for companies in Asia and Europe. And the same thing occurs with the semi and gloss coated sections. Now the all-important time to dry. centered on semi and gloss wing areaNext, I’ve sprayed the part with AK Interactive Real Colors Air Superiority Blue, masked and sprayed semi gloss then gloss clear coat. Painted and varnished shot at a 45 angle Plastic parts may become brittle. Avoid using on movable parts and take care when applying to load-bearing areas. Lastly, I took the time to scribe the panel lines and rivet the rudder of the B-17 Flying Fortress. Then it was primed and sprayed light sky grey and given a mat clear coat. After the prep work had dried, I used the brown color to accentuate my detail work. As you can see in the picture there’s quite a difference between the two color tones. The lighter looks as though rain had collected then dried while the softer brown has that earthy look. The point is you can have multiple shades and not be restricted to one. Tail with two cups