I would recommend the unit, it heats up incredibly fast, and the controls are easy to use, the iron holder is heavy and very solid, as is the control unit and the iron cord is nice and long. When the Co-Browse window opens, give the session ID that is located in the toolbar to the representative. Specially designed handle and tip provide improved workability when mounting minute, high-density electronic components.

The angle of the iron holder can be changed freely so that the iron holder accommodates soldering in both a standing and a sitting position. I opted out of purchasing the lower FX888D model, because I didn’t like the tips that you use with this type of soldering iron. Not a fan of the digital interface, with a cumbersome button user interface replacing the intuitive analog temperature control dial. For holding small components, purchased the Wiha 44501 Stainless Steel Fine Point Professional ESD Precision Tech Tweezer with Static Dissipative Grip and Hypo Allergenic, 130mm Overall Length.With 91 Variations of Tips and various other accessories available to purchase separately, the FX951 is a real workhorse for both the professional or hobbyist. They are pretty good, and better in a couple ways (which don't matter for 99% of people 99% of the time, IMO). If the rule of thumb is "wait 3tau" wouldn't this mean the magnet is taking longer to discharge if the time we need to wait is 4. Compared to the FX-888D, which is mainly used for private use, this soldering station is made for everyone who must be able to rely on his soldering station every day. What is not so obvious is there is only a 5W difference in power between the Hakko FX-888D and the Hakko FX-951 handpieces.

I don't even need a pack I guess, just a few extra types would be a good start for SMD and big chip stuff. For someone else, max might be your default setting; watching some Louis Rossman videos, I get impression that he leaves his at max all the time; actually seen him looking for the key to demonstrate how to change temp of his 951, and it was set and locked to 480C.

It is nothing more than a piece of plastic to trigger an internal optical sensor, jwrelectro 3d-printed his own. However I really miss the potentiometer control, Hakko could have at least added a up AND down button.