Basecoat the lights white and apply contrast: Gryph-Charger Grey for the whites, Gryph-Hound Orange for the turn signals and Baal Red for the rear lights. With the next guy up, I had really gotten glazing down. Unlike the model above I took shots of this guy in stages so you can see how the glazing performs. This above is after only one layer of Reaper’s Fire Orange. I really wanted to try out a rusty coloured scheme for my Plague Marines and this was definitely heading in teh right direction. The glaze is now subtly shifting the overall armour colour to the orange tone I wanted, whilst still keeping the under painted cool blue layer in the shadows. For you guys, I highly recommend you try these out. Think of a colour that you paint most often for your army. Find a Reaper MSP triad that is in that range and try it in place of what you normally paint. Hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If so, leave a comment or reaction below, and if you got any questions, leave them here so I can answer them for you. The dropper bottles are a bit smaller than the standard 17ml that vallejo/army painter/scale/andrea/proacryl/AK interactive/Greenstuffworld (etc) use. they are 0.5 once, which equates to around 15ml. this is not a negative, just something to be aware of.

If anyone is familiar enough with traditional artist colors, I would greatly appreciate your help converting my palete. If you do have any questions or suggestions on how to improve it for others, then please do let me know.Purity Seals – Wash with Agrax Earthshade. Highlight with Wazdakka Red and Ushabti Bone. Add lines of writing in Eshin Grey. Is there a conversion chart that would cross reference Reaper Master Series to the Liquitex line of artist’s colors?

Wash the red armor bits with about 40% Agrax, 60% Lahmian Medium, then touch up any pooling marks with Mephiston Red

anyway, even with these points: i fully agree with you in that they are great paints and I’m happy to have them. Reply After this, we go to our base coating, which is pretty simple. I hit the flesh with Rakarth Flesh for a nice pale gray tone. I go for Naggaroth Night for my purples, Leadbelcher for the silvers, and Zandri Dust for my bones. I start dark on my little evil Drukhari tubes all over the model with Dark Angel Green and hit the tabard with Bugmans Glow . Finally, the pants get a coat of Dryad Bark . The end result is a nice jumping off point for where we want to go with this model. Highlight the yellow areas with a brighter yellow, such as Flashgitz Yellow. You can accentuate this further with an edge highlight of Dorn Yellow. Dark Eldar: The Dark Eldar are a sadistic and cruel alien race that feature a lot of purple and green in their color scheme. Dark Reaper paint is perfect for painting the green parts of the Dark Eldar’s armor and vehicles, giving them a deep and rich look. It can also be used to paint the details and weathering on their armor, giving them a realistic and weathered look.

I also think that many people think that thinner paint right from the bottle is a indicator for lower quality. A-And to be fair: this is not too much of a unreasonable assumption. MSP is a little thinner, and maybe that’s why it gets thrown under the bus by some. The paint isn’t advertised to work without primer, but I’ve expressed many times that primer is not a necessary ingredient for painting miniatures. It’s just better at binding to plastic and it’s better for the paint to adhere too. If you are not going to handle your models during or after painting, primer is just an extra layer of paint between the final coat and the model’s details. Well well, once again you come to me to ask for advice on how to paint Drukhari? Oh don’t worry, prospective and current Archon’s of the Dark City, I will guide you. I hope you have your most hammy evil monologues at the ready and a glass of wine to swirl menacingly, you’ll need it. That’s it for now! Stay tuned for further articles covering other exciting models for Marvel Crisis Protocol! Additional Photos: In our How to Paint Everything series, we look at how to paint well, everything! We look at different models and techniques and have multiple approaches to specific models. In today’s article, we’re looking at how to paint some of the terrain in Marvel Crisis Protocol, starting with terrain found in the Core Box (CP01) set!Any item not in its original condition, is damaged or missing parts for reasons not due to our error This one is good for finding the different shades of a color so you can find good shade and highlight colors. Drybrushing with these paints is also a breeze. Again, with the high-opacity, you get a lot more colour in your brush. You need to be aware of this, compared to a typical paint you do need to spend more time removing paint before drybrushing the model. What another brand would take to get a drybrush consistency, Reaper MSP can still produce a decent layer with the same amount Most P3 Paints do not match closely with the old GW range, but a detailed explanation of each paint can be found here: http://www.brushthralls.com/pre-painting-prep/color-theory-10p3.html Greetings, True Believers! Marvel Crisis Protocol (MCP) has entered a golden age, with well-balanced rules (that are available online for free) and over 120 characters available from the Marvel universe (and growing)! If you need a break from other games with too many models, MCP is a nice variation – with only a few characters required for a game and a relatively minimal amount of terrain. And what terrain there is!

Sybarite Green where it makes sense on the cloth – this is a bit of an art, but you want to put some lines to give it some definition. You can push these further with Skarsnik Green if you wantSpray a smaller highlight in the same corner with a brighter blue, such as Lothern Blue or Baharroth Blue.